13 AWESOME PLACES FOR TWO-WHEEL FANS

Jarosław (Jarek) Tarański - blogger, journalist, cyclist since birth. Promoter of active tourism (Wydawnictwo Family Cup, Sportowy Styl, Narciarski Atlas Polski) and co-organizer of a series of sports competitions for amateurs (Stowarzyszenie Family Cup). An economist by profession and a passionate computer scientist. Since childhood, he has considered the bicycle as his favourite means of transport to explore the world and for over 20 years, he has been touring Małopolska on two wheels. Since 2015, he has been actively monitoring and promoting the development of cycling tourism in Małopolska and running social media channels (@velomalopolska) on this topic. As a bicycle expert, he cooperates with bicycle associations and local government organizations.

A man of his own accord on highland soil, a hard-core cyclist and author of a bicycle guide around Podtatrze. Wojtek, who rides in the mountains not only as a hobby, but also professionally, created bike routes for the Cycling Route Around the Tatras in 2018. During his bicycle adventures, he finds real gems - places that don’t have souvenir stalls or heard Despacito. During one of them, he ended up in Dursztyn, a village between the Beskids, Pieniny and Tatra landscapes, and he knew that this was it. With the help of two talented architects, he built Okno Na Tatry there. It just so happens that 100 metres from the house, there is a bicycle trail around the Tatra Mountains, and a bit further (5-15 minutes by car) you have Velo Dunajec trails and a path around Lake Czorsztyńskie (the routes can be found in the guide on the spot).

Wojtek's review: Once you go around Lake Czorsztyn, you will get to know the quiet Velo Dunajec and the scenic trail around the Tatra Mountains, and then set off in a less known direction - to Osturňa in Slovakia. Beautifully preserved wooden huts, a country radio station, a bar straight from Czechoslovakia in a Lemko village in the mountains.

Slowhop's review: A comfortable cottage for four with internet access and unlimited 3D views through large panoramic windows. There are other buildings on site, but you can still easily admire the uninterrupted views after conquering the surrounding area by bike.

This list could not exist without Simon and his Sywarne Chalet. He’s not only a Polish Champion who competed in the country’s first Bicycle Rally competition and won this title with a broken arm, but he’s also a driving instructor, founder of a MTB academy, and an organizer of sports and events for cyclists. For years, Szymon has been putting his love for bicycles into everything he touches, which is why Sywarne Chalet is located right next to the most beautiful bicycle trail in Poland - Velo Dunajec and the Cycling Route Around the Tatras. You don’t have to lug your bikes with you to Sywarne because nearby, in Zakopane, Szymon has his own rental shop. If you’re planning a biking trip, talk to him before your arrival - as a specialist, he’ll be happy to help you with bikes, a trip or training in riding techniques.

Wojtek's review: Here’s a rather unknown fact - the Gubałówka Mountain Range has its still undiscovered face. Butorowy Wierch, Mietłówka, Rafaczówki, Płazówka - these names will interest every MTB enthusiast. Or do you prefer easy, asphalt, picturesque paths? Cool! Take the cable car to "Guba" with a bike and go down the ridges to Cichy and Nowy Targ, 100% asphalt, 90% downhill.

Slowhop's review: Exclusive house with a view in 5D for 6 people and a super designer interior at a safe distance from Zakopane.

Oh, and head to Tomek for electric bike trips in the mountains or ski touring in the winter. We have a new concept at Slowhop, which in a nutshell, you take your 7 best buddies and hide in a ski tour hut from Sunday evening to Friday morning. From Friday, Skiturowa Chata accepts only active recreation fanatics and generally there are two options: either you ride the trails with Tomek on electric mountain bikes in the summer (weekends from June to September) or go skiing in winter (as soon as the snow falls). On the e-bike route, you can reach peaks you never even dreamed of. Okay, so you have to pedal a little bit, but you don’t have to put in so much effort thanks to the electric motor built into the bikes.

Wojtek's review: The Silesian Beskid is not the wildest mountain range in Poland, but the multitude of forest roads and paths means a sea of possibilities: routes around Szczyrk are an MTB paradise, the Tri-City is a cultural and landscape surprise for almost everyone, and the Beskid Mały and Żywiecki are directions for those who like to discover unknown mountain corners away from the crowds of tourists. Over the last 2 years, both in Wisła (skolnity.pl) and in Szczyrk (Szczyrk.pl), complexes of really decent quality downhill routes have been created, so it’s perfect for those who like a lift uphill, to then ride the smooth downward “flow”. 

Slowhop's review: You don’t have to worry about equipment or accessories because you'll find ski and bicycle equipment on site, as well as Tom who’s the host, guide and instructor. You can also ride a bike through the Beskid Śląski Landscape Park.

Stories like these tug at our Slowhop heartstrings the most. There is a story about a fire and a new beginning, and the host is Alina, a journalist from Katowice, traveller and mountain lover. There are high climbs in this story, extraordinary encounters and overcoming one's own limits and weaknesses. But there’s also Podlesice, which rose from the ashes and now hosts guests - avid climbers, famous travellers, crazy cyclists and those who want peace and good vibes in Podlesice. BlueVelo and a whole bunch of walking and cycling paths run nearby. It’s worth turning to the Trail of the Eagle's Nests which connects Częstochowa with Krakow (190 km in total). Check out the medieval ruins, drop into the Głęboka Cave, see the Ogrodzieniec Castle in Podzamcze and the one in Bobolice and Mirów. More bold cyclists have a treat under their breath: Góra Zborów, which, apart from climbers, more and more often attracts adrenaline-hungry cyclists. Another option with a similar level of difficulty is a wide range of rock outliers - Kroczyce and Podlesice. There are 500 routes of various difficulty levels at your disposal.

Slowhop's review: House with 4 bedrooms for up to 15 people, where you can bring your dog. Here, passion is contagious.

Wojtek's review: It's kind of flat, but no, oh no! Among these rocks, there are a lot of climbs and descents as well as downhill rides. Trail of the Eagle's Nests is a treat both on MTB, as well as gravel or trekking, riding through vast spaces dotted with rocks and castles. Besides…there is still a lot to discover deep in the Jurassic forest by bike.

Our series of admiration for Greta does not end, and if you have recently been at Slowhop, be sure to drop by here and here. Villa Greta is a cool spot with history, for foodies and parents with kids. Cycling is also something to talk about. The area is full of cool singletracks, i.e. narrow, one-way paths, about the width of a bicycle. Nine loops were opened last year, all in the area of 5-15 km from Greta. A total of 55 km of routes of varying difficulty. The equipment for rides can be rented at the nearby palace shelter in Muchów (12 km), and for electric wheels, hit the Sudety Trail - they will gladly deliver the bikes to Greta. You can safely store four wheels on site, and even buy a map with marked routes in the Kaczawskie Mountains and Foothills, the nearby Rudawy Janowickie, Jelenia Góra Valley and the Karkonosze Mountains.

“A quiet and charming place. Time slows down. The hosts and the whole team are open, warm, flexible to our needs, but at the same time they leave room for intimacy. Delicious food!!! There is something to do for both kids and adults. The area is perfect for walking and learning about nature and history. We highly recommend it!”

Jarek's review: The Kaczawskie Single Tracks are several mountain loops, prepared paths for mountain biking. You will not find mud or sections that cannot be driven over, but you will quickly catch a calm flow in the forest corners of the Kaczawskie Mountains. These loops are perfect for beginners or for those who want to train MTB because of the difficulty level, as it often happens with singletracks, increases with the adjusted speed. We recommend driving by car between the loops, and if you only have a weekend plan, I recommend starting by driving along the loop “Okole” and “Okole-zjazd”, and then “Drużek” with a drive to the observation tower. If you like these two propositions, set out to explore the others. The owners of Villa Greta have a mine of knowledge about "singles".

Slowhop's review: A great base for exploring the Sudetes and Lower Silesia: medieval castles and extinct volcanoes. Take the kids with you!

Wojtek and Marysia were looking for their oasis for 8 years and they finally found it in a clearing in Przecznica, in the Zacisze of the Izera Mountains. Over the next two years, they renovated the old house, and in the room where the cows used to reside, they created a common space for guests with a fireplace and a large table at which you can tell your life stories. There are singletracks all around, and whoever has gone cross-country skiing at least once probably knows that Świeradów Zdrój and Jakuszyce is a kind of mecca for skiers. Bikes can be borrowed from neighbours or from a rental company (8 km from Polana), and then you can ride to the singletrack Zajęcznik, over to Czarniawa or the one under Smrk on the Czech-Polish border, between Nove Mesto and Świeradów Zdrój (almost 100 km of moderately difficult routes). More avid cyclists can drop by Pasmo Rowerowe Olbrzymy (Giant’s Bicycle Range) - it’s almost 80 km of professional singletracks, partly located in the Karkonosze National Park (20 km from Polana). For those with less enthusiasm for pedalling (or condition), we recommend the Jakuszyce route, Szklarska Poręba - 23 km of paths through the most beautiful corners of the High Ridge of the Izera Mountains (Stanisław Quartz Mine, Wysoki Kamień, Jakuszyce). You can try it yourself or take it seriously and sign up for professional cycling training here. But you can’t live on cycling alone - it’s also worth pedalling for biscuit pancakes with cottage cheese and an absurd amount of berries in the Chata Górzystów in Hala Izerska, drop by the water dam in Pilchowice, or a bit further to the Czocha Castle in Sucha. Additionally, from May to September, there is the Izerski Park - a fair with local products.

“Thank you for a wonderful stay and we really recommend this place to stay! Our room was not only nice and well-equipped, it was also very large - unfortunately, many holiday destinations are still small like cubicles, but here there was a lot of space for us and our clothes, suitcase, etc. Everyone raves about their delicious breakfasts, and we also join in with this opinion - tasty, generous portions, fresh, local products and prepared with heart. This kitchen, dining and living space is excellent. As for the area around here, we used the possibility of lighting a fire several times. The location offers many options for hiking or car trips (we are not cyclists, but we met a lot of cyclists). The area is rich with hiking trails, museums, old castles and charming towns on the Polish, Czech and German side. We managed to see only a fraction of it in a week. That’s why we have to come back!"

Jarek's review: In this location, you will be a bit torn due to all the cycling attractions. Go on the oldest and extremely fantastic network of single tracks to Świeradów, or maybe try the newest mountain paths in the vicinity of Szklarska Poreba. I recommend the definitely more technical Obrzynów Pass for those with more experience, but who wouldn’t want to try cycling the training route of our most decorated mountain biker, Maja Włoszczowska? We must send gravel riders to the vicinity of Jakuszyce, where you will find one of the best "gravel" networks in the Polish mountains. Are you taking a road bike? Then you probably know what you’re doing and I can predict that you’ll direct your steering wheel towards the Karkonoska Pass, which is the most difficult asphalt uphill stretch in Poland (start from Podgórzyn).

Slowhop's review: Five rooms for a total of 18 people, each with its own bathroom and a lockable place for storing bicycles. One of the two dark sky parks in Poland is located in the Izera Mountains (the meteor showers in August are spectacular).

Something for those who like to be the first on the slope in winter and cannot imagine summer without pedalling uphill. It’s impossible to get even closer to the slope, because the Ski & Sun Apartments are located on the top of the Izerski slope, in the interior of the ski station. The air smells of coniferous forests, it is beautifully designed, you can look down at the world from above, sip wine on the terrace and all your worries immediately seem to disappear. Right next to it are the two famous single tracks Zajęcznik and Czerniawa, and a bit further on the Czech side is the single track under Smrek - Świeradów-Zdrój. Various difficulty levels, from a steady pace to a real bike gallop. You don't have to worry about the equipment because everything is on site - electric bike and MTB rental.

“It’s hard to express in words the delight and satisfaction we felt with our stay at Ski & Sun Apartments. Starting from the gondola lift ride above over 1000 m to the amazing views in a beautifully decorated intimate hotel. Absolutely everything that we found there deserves the highest ratings and compliments. It’s been a long time since anyone treated us like the ladies from the reception desk. Our room was beautifully decorated, absolutely nothing was random, and what's more, it gave us a lot of inspiration;) The food was brilliant! The view from the window was so breathtaking that we decided to get up at 4 am to admire the sunrise. The spectacle that we witnessed will remain in our memory for a long time. Thank you very much for such an amazing and unforgettable stay, we are so impressed, we will recommend it and we will definitely be back! Thank you for throwing a great birthday party!! Everything from the approach to the client, this individualism, professionalism and discretion - because you make this place what it is, I give it 13/10!!"

Jarek's review: If you’re already in Świeradów, I strongly recommend that you focus on the singletrack network that stretches across the Polish-Czech border. It was in Novo Mesto that one of the first singletrack loops in this part of Europe (Singltrek pod Smrkem) was created. It became so popular that the site has grown to well over 100 km of routes on both sides of the border (the Zajęcznik and Czerniawa loops were added). On the routes, you can meet literally riders from every age range and skill level, because they are traditionally prepared singletracks - skilfully respecting heights, where the difficulty increases with the speed you ride. You can jump on any of them to see if the trail suits you, but if I have to recommend something for starters, I say you start with the easy and medium loops located under and above the atmospheric bicycle centre in Novo Mesto, and then start discovering the rest.

Slowhop's review: Eight intimate apartments at 1060m above sea level plus a self-service wine bar.

A place for those who don't need starched bedding and fancy luxuries to feel the best in the world. Nothing is forced in Stara Szkoła Nad Jeziorem (Old School by the Lake). Hania moved to a secluded Masurian village from Krakow. And believe me: this is a really secluded village but it’s lovely. Truely. There, almost near Gołdap, near the entrance to the Romincka Forest, Hania brought a house from the beginning of the previous century back to life and invites everyone who prefers veg over meat and those who don’t mind the Masurian flies. The Green Velo bicycle route is practically over the fence, you can drop by the Romincka Forest, go to the border crossing point or to the historic bridges in Stańczyki, ride friendly horses in stables, take a bath in the lake, which is a 2-minute walk away, and then talk to Hania about life in the countryside, the first Masurian winter and the best school in the world - without lessons.

“A beautiful place with peace, quiet, fresh air. I did not expect that it’s so beautiful east of Gołdap. Hills, space, endless rapeseed fields, cows, great bike routes. For breakfast, homemade rolls, local cheeses, country eggs, and honey from a neighbour. The hosts are a nice family who live on the edge of the world."

Jarek's review: I recommend treating the Warmian-Masurian section of the Green Velo Trail (almost 400 km) only as a basic plan for a cycling adventure or for peaceful trips in the surrounding forests and wilderness. Gravel lovers will find paradise here! We especially recommend the loop in the Romincka Forest and a trip on the GV to Węgorzewo and a loop around Lake Mamry to try the so-called Masurian Cycling Loop.

Slowhop's review: In the Old School you can safely store your Wigry 3 bike and other modern models. There are only four rooms, all with their own bathroom, except the fourth one (but is only rented to groups or families in connection with other rooms).

On the edge of the Borecka Forest, in Mazury Garbate, in the central part of the 102 km long Trail of Masurian Legends, there is an over 100-year-old farm with a pre-war orchard, pond and a soul. You can load your bikes on a rack, or use ones on site and go on a trip through fields and meadows, forest wilderness, marshes and swamps and follow in the footsteps of 27 statues and 27 legends associated with them. While you’re in Masuria, you must check out the lakes! During a break from pedaling, you can jump into the largest lake - Gołdap, the nearest Lake Żywiec, or hop into a rowing boat, which the hosts will gladly let you borrow. There are ponies for petting, 2 hectares of greenery and 4 double rooms for adult cyclists.

Jarek's review: While you’re in this area, it’s worth going on one of the bicycle routes in the Mrągowo Region. The two closest spots are the green "Masurian Legends Trail" (100 km) and the red "Forest Trail" (50 km). On the latter, while exploring the Borecka Forest, do not forget to visit the bison pen in Wolisko. As on most trails in Masuria, be prepared for the "wildness" on the kilometres of forest adventures travelled. 

Slowhop's review: A friendly supernova spot which just opened in July 2020 for adults with a sneak peek of pedalling. A real village with flies, mosquitoes, the cleanest air in Poland and the Borecka Forest at your fingertips.

A completely new, Masurian corner conjured up in the Pisz Forest, in the vicinity of Lake Zyzdrój Wielki and two nice bicycle routes: the red Jurand trail and the blue one - Lancy (each about 25 km long). Not only that - on the other side of the lake there is the Krutyński Cycling Trail, consisting of almost 70 kilometres of paths leading along the most famous canoeing trail in Poland - the Krutynia trail. You can tour the lakes, observe the Masurian villages, old wooden sculptures or a fragment of forest especially left by foresters after the hurricane in 2002, and then take a kayak and go for pierogi with blueberries at the Babięta Stanica Wodna.

Jarek's review: Do you like gravel and forest roads that stretch for kilometres? Then you will love the Krutyn Bike Trail. Warning! You will also discover that Masuria is not flat, because the trail itself, in addition to the lake views, has a solid dose of intervals. Use this trail as a source of inspiration and the surrounding paths as an excellent opportunity to discover places that you won’t find by car.

Slowhop's review: A comfortable cottage for 6 adults and two children, with an equipped kitchen and a great place for an evening fire. Bicycles for adults and a bicycle for children are available on site for no extra fee.

"Instead of Bora Bora - Bory Bory Tucholskie (Tuchola Forest)". On the Wda River, right at the entrance to the Tuchola Landscape Park, Ania and Michał have created their own rest stop. One that you always want to come back to, the smell of roasted trout, the sound of beer being poured that’s brewed on the spot and the green forest of Bory stretching endlessly. They renamed the family-owned Samotnia nad Wda to Przystanek Tleń and created a simple, satisfying triad: a guesthouse, a restaurant and a brewery. There are so many trails around here that your bike will take off by itself. The Blue Velo and EuroVelo 10 routes run nearby, and the Kashubian Route is a bit further. You can jump into Lake Żur, take a trip on the Wda River, and then as a reward for your efforts, feed your inner child with dumplings, and the inner adult - with golden drinks;)

“A rest stop is a place where you would happily stay while travelling. You experiment the first time you’re there, and then, on the way back, you make plans to eat dinner here and take a break. Proudly! We will definitely come back to this place!"

Jarek's review: Tuchola Forest has been associated with cyclists in recent years primarily due to the Kashubian Route. It is a network of gravel (mainly) and asphalt bicycle routes, most of which are neatly separated from car traffic and surround the entire Bory Tucholskie National Park in a neat loop (approx. 100 km). The route is perfect for riding with children or for people with less experience in riding (flat), but also experienced "gravel riders" return from here delighted to do it in one day (the route can also be shortened).

Slowhop's review: Ania and Michał's restaurant is recommended by Slow food Polska, so keep that in mind if you want to visit them unannounced (there may not be a place to sit, but we usually call ahead). A fairly busy street runs right next to it, so people looking for peace and quiet and frog sounds for a good night sleep may not find it here.

Jest co najmniej kilka powodów dla których Stodoła 7 znajduje się w tym zestawieniu. Pierwszy jest taki, że niedaleko przebiega niezwykła trasa rowerowa Kaszubska Marszruta, po drugie, jest to azyl dla dorosłych, więc nie spotkacie tam dzieci, za to w charakterze kojącej atrakcji występuje kryty basen z kominkiem, z którego można wychlapywać wodę bez lęku o konkurencje. Zazwyczaj bywają tak 4 osoby (w porywach), ale nawet taki "tłum" szybko rozchodzi się po strefie saun. Na miejscu są bowiem dwie sauny i masaże dla zmęczonych pedałowaniem gości, czerwona wanna, która pewnie już mignęła wam na Insta, i jedzenie, o którym można pisać poematy. Polecamy objazdy po okolicznych jeziorach, to najbliższe i największe jezioro na Kocewiu - jezioro Kałębie znajduje się zaledwie 50 m od Stodoły.

„Myślę, że to jest najpiękniejsza agroturystyka w Polsce. Docenią Ci, którzy kochają piękne detale, pyszne jedzenie i zapach, bo tu dosłownie wszystko pieści zmysły. Mimo że chce się tu siedzieć na miejscu przez cały weekend, przejdźcie się 16 km wokół jeziora i zobaczcie najstarszą część Borów Tucholskich, bo naprawdę warto. Świetnie, że jest to miejsce tylko dla dorosłych, bo udało nam się z przyjaciółmi solidnie odpocząć, w końcu spokojnie porozmawiać i na dodatek mocno zmęczyć i dotlenić podczas spaceru. ”

Jarek's review: Is the Kashubian Route not enough? In that case, I recommend the much more paved, but still separated from traffic, Bydgoszcz-Koronowo trail along the route of the former narrow-gauge railway, with a spectacular bridge over the Brda River. While you’re at the Koronowski Lagoon, it’s also worth going around it, along quiet public roads. Still not enough? Check out the project Kociewie Cycling Routes - these are only proposals for bicycle trips (and not dedicated infrastructure) between Grudziądz and Tczew. You can also try out the Vistula Bicycle Route, which is being built by the Pomeranian Voivodeship on both banks of the Vistula.

Slowhop's review: The paths of the Kashubian Route run through amazing forest areas, away from large 2-lane roads for cars. The route is easy and pleasant so if you don't want to, you won't get tired. Be sure to visit Kociewie, jump into the Black Lake (it has a mud subsoil) and try a fish caught from the local waters.

We are moving over to Kashubia because we know that there are also some who squeal at the sight of the sea. From here you have about 3.5 km to the Baltic Sea, which means a pleasant ride on a bike without breathlessness. Chatka Pod Sosnami is located in a holiday cottage estate, but it has a beautiful view of a pine forest, a large porch and the Velo Baltica bicycle route (R10) along the Baltic coast just under your nose. You can cross the peninsula, find your piece of wild beach, visit the Słowiński National Park and nearby lakes or climb the Stilo Lighthouse, and then, happy from exhaustion, sip wine on the porch and watch the kids fall like jackdaws from all the fresh air.

"This is a place that I don’t like to advertise because I want to keep it for myself :-) The area has the best views, beautiful nature, immeasurable bike routes, empty and endless beach, the most delicious fish, and the house is beautiful, comfortably equipped, clean, but most of all it “has soul". The hostess is kind, always nearby and helpful if necessary. I heartily recommend it to everyone who wants to take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, but please take care of this place, which was created with such care!"

Jarek's review: It’s true. The cottage is located right next to the international route EV10 (also known as Velo Baltica), i.e. the European route around the Baltic Sea. It’s a joint project by the Pomeranian and West Pomeranian voivodeships, aimed at ensuring the most comfortable and safe riding along the coast. I recommend finding out about how much has already been done, and choose a trip along the recently renewed route through the Hel Peninsula on Hel. From there, board the ferry and return from the Tri-City, sticking to the shores of the bay until you reach Władysławowo (the so-called Puck Bay Ring). You can also turn off in Swarzewo towards Krokowo, along the so-called North Kashubian Manors and Palaces Route.

Slowhop's review: A cottage in Kopalin with four bedrooms (two floors) and a nice garden with a playground. But there are holiday homes around, so keep that in mind.